A celebration of the old and the avant-garde, dunhill's latest collection has married tradition and subversion work with a classic British spin.
Wool Camel Strapped Kimono Coat - AED 16,500. Courtesy of dunhill
Showcasing a bold and fresh take on deconstruction, the menswear comprises codes of class and art, with the introduction of Pegged trousers in felt and eel skin, paying homage to the 70s New Romantic movement which emerged in the UK.
“dunhill is not one thing, it’s many,” says Mark Weston, Creative Director of dunhill. “This is my fifth show at the house and there feels like a certain kind of summing up in this collection. I am fascinated with The Blitz club, particularly Homer Sykes’ pictures of it. It was a place of freedom and individuality, a mix of cultures: performers, the establishment and art. We don’t seem to have that now, that collision. And the collision is important.
Bordeaux Zip Trousers - AED 10,500. Courtesy of dunhill
The man in this collection is a cross between the preppy and the new wave, the establishment and the anti-establishment – it is not about making purely singular characters. Instead, it is about taking all those elements and putting them together, reconstructing and recontextualising. I approached the collection in terms of process – dismantling it and putting it together in a different way. It is also about how to build and engineer clothing. It is a mindset that is not lofty, but it is exciting in its technicality. In many ways, it is a new view of deconstruction.”
From silk knit neck-pieces and strong structured shoulders to high break jackets, lock bags and luxurious leather outerwear, see it all below in dunhill's third show in collaboration with poet-cum-musician James Massiah.